“I started wearing Hanfu because it was beautiful, but also because it encouraged me to appreciate my own culture,” says Ku. “It’s gradually moving from a subculture aspect towards popular culture,” says Hanfu make-up artist and stylist, Lin He Huang. “I’ve tried styling a ma mian qun with a T-shirt or a blouse, because Hanfu is sometimes a bit over the top for everyday life,” says Ku. “I like Ming Hua Tang because they have the best craftsmanship, woven fabrics, restored patterns and colour schemes,” says Li. If a client prefers to experience the original hand-made artisanship, they can visit Ming Hua Tang, an online store established in 2007 specialising in Ming dynasty Hanfu. Similar to the western haute couture process, Ming Hua Tang takes around a year to create a ma mian qun, a skirt worn during the Ming Dynasty for riding, and a jiaoling robe, chinese new year traditional clothing a top with a round collar.

The Ming Dynasty was the last dynasty ruled by the Han, and during this time, the emperor aimed to restore Han culture and tradition, which included adopting the Tang Dynasty’s wardrobe. Hanfu, an abbreviation for “Han ethnic clothing,” is a time-honored traditional attire that holds a significant place in Chinese history and culture. This type of dress declined in popularity under Manchu rule during the Qing dynasty because it represented the Han ethnic minority who were then Manchu political rivals, but is now being reclaimed by Gen Y and Gen Z women. During the Eastern Zhou Dynasty (770 – 221 BC), two styles were introduced: the Shenyi, a one-piece garment, and the Mianfu, a type of religious court clothing worn by ancient emperors and officials. During the early Qing dynasty, the Qing court issued the Tifayifu policies on the Han Chinese population, which led to the disappearance of most Hanfu. During the Qin Dynasty, wearing green silk Pao and Shenyi was mandatory for third-rank officials and higher, while the rest wore white linen Pao. The Hanfu saw few changes during the Qin and Han periods, as the Han still preferred the Shenyi style.

Hanfu enthusiast Bo Yu Li’s choice is Ming dynasty style “because it’s flamboyant and elegant”. Popular styles include the Tang, Song and Ming dynasty. Yes, while traditionally associated with formal and ceremonial events, many contemporary styles of men’s Hanfu are designed for comfort and daily wear. The Hanfu has gone through several iterations throughout history, providing contemporary enthusiasts with more choices. Evolving throughout several dynasties in history, there are different variations exist of the Hanfu, which conveniently offers more choice for modern adoptees. Throughout history, the Hanfu has gone through various iterations, offering contemporary enthusiasts more choices. It can be mass-produced with contemporary techniques and at different price points from £11 to £1,100 depending on the material. Although wearing Hanfu can be a complicated process (there are seven steps to putting one on properly), modern enthusiasts have found a way of simplifying the process by styling it with contemporary pieces. There are two types of Buddhist jangsam which is worn as monastic robe in present days, the jangsam of the Jogye Order and the Taego Order of Buddhism. In present days, huadian is often combined with the wearing of hanfu, the traditional clothing of the Han Chinese.

Song dynasty painting of a man wearing zhiduo. Jurchen material culture dating about 1162 were found from the coffin of the Prince of Qi, Wanyan Yan, and his wife, where Wanyan Yan and his wife were dressed in layers of clothing in the duplicate style as those worn by Lady Wenji and the warriors who accompanied her in the painting Cai Wenji returning to Han. After this, the western style of dressing was introduced, and most people embraced it. With the overthrow of feudalism in 1911, the popularity of traditional Chinese clothing waned, and Western fashion began to take hold in China. Hanfu traditionally has been worn for special occasions, but the new revival sees it worn simply as part of everyday fashion. Song Dynasty attire primarily inherited the fashion of the Tang Dynasty, with more emphasis on embellishments and needlework. Contrastingly, Kuby Ku, another Hanfu fan, prefers the Tang.

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